Bulgari Coral, White Mother-of Pearl and Diamond Ear Clips Circa 1980
These ear clips demonstrate Bulgari’s conception of designing jewels as miniature constructions rather than ornament alone. Built in dimensional tiers, the design rises in sculptural layers rather than a geometric gateau. The outermost register forms a square silhouette articulated by four triangular segments of vivid orange coral, each framed in pave diamonds. That perimeter gives way to a second, diamond set square over which sit white mother of pearl triangular panels--cool iridescent planes that temper the warmth of the coral and create deliberate chromatic tension
At the center, the composition culminates in a pyramidal coral apex edged in gold and is subtly upturned at the corners so the jewel does not lie flat against the ear. The lift is intentional: the edges catch the light and shadow, reinforcing the three dimensionality. Coral’s saturated opacity plays against the milky luminosity of the mother-of-pearl, while the diamond borders function as architectural mortar between planes. The result is unmistakably Bulgari—bold color blocking, classical geometry abstracted into volume, and a confident interplay of materials that reads both sculptural and modern.
- 1 inch wide
- 1 inch high
- Bombe in form
- Weight in grams is 23
- Signed Bulgari
- Circa 1980