Van Cleef & Arpels Double-Strand Angel Skin Coral, Mother-of Pearl and 18k Gold Necklace Circa 1958-1963

This striking double-stranded necklace is set with alternating bezel-set angel skin coral and white mother-of-pearl squares each separated by round open gold links. The interplay of the square and round links introduces a rhythmic sense of movement and continuity, allowing the necklace to transition seamlessly from tailored daytime wear to refined evening elegance. It is from a limited edition of hand-made pieces.

This necklace fits into VCA’s quietly intellectual mid-century phase. The geometric, modular link architecture hints at near east inspiration. Its flat inlay design with restrained color combinations emphasizes elegance over the “Wild Pop of the following phase of jewelry that highlighted loud color combinations and high volume creations.

Van Cleef & Arpels liked to use angel skin coral because it is of a color that reads like living skin and its deliberate contrast with yellow gold and diamonds. 1960-1970 was the pinnacle of VCA’s prominence in designing with angel skin.  It represented the “creative effervescence” of that time in the jeweler’s history. 

Angel skin coral is a very rare soft pastel coral found in great depths in the Pacific Ocean and in ancient times was described by Pliny the Elder as something that “hardened when removed from the sea”—a liminal material between water and stone. It is a light pink variety of “Precious Coral”  from the genus of “Pleurocorallium”.  From antiquity throughout history, it was thought to offer protective energy without aggression, emotional balance and calm. It was often associated with children and infants signaling gentleness and purity rather than strength. In Christian symbolism, this pale coral was sometimes chosen for devotional objects meant to convey mercy, tenderness and spiritual refinement.

Angel skin coral still exists in the wild but its harvesting is now extremely restricted and regulated. Worldwide coral reefs face threats from all kinds of things including pollution, overharvesting and climate change. We are fortunate to have this very special and beautiful necklace made from a material that is truly of extraordinary scarcity.

• Length is 18 inches
• Width is approximately 1.75 inches
• 19 square plaques each of bezel-set angle skin and mother-of-pearl
• Marked VCA and 750
• Numbered BL 11482