Marina B 18k Gold and Diamond Choker Circa 1982

Marina Bulgari was born in July 1930 into the famous jewelry family Bulgari, founded by her grandfather. She worked as a designer at Bulgari until 1978 when she left to create her own firm. She immediately founded “Crisart” but in 1978 decided to call the company after herself, Marina B.

Marina B was at her core a Geometric Modernist. Unlike many of the designers of the 1970s and 1980s who used hard angles (Aldo Cipullo, Jean Dinh Van), she sought soft geometry—shapes that were architectural but still sensual.

One of the hallmarks of a Marina B creation, is the use of gemstones cut in the form of a “chestnut”.  She invented the Chestnut Cut because she needed a shape that literally did not exist- a rounded triangular form that echoed her architectural gold forms but with softer more sensual curves. Traditional shapes including pear, heart and marquise, each offered part of what she wanted but none would fit her triangular settings. Working with cutters, she came up with the chestnut which is a rounded triangle with three equal arcs and a gently swollen profile.

The Chestnut Cut was significant because: 1. it gave her brand an instantly recognizable symbol, 2. it allowed gemstones to fit perfectly within her triangular gold settings and 3.it highlighted colored gemstones and diamonds in a modern and sculptural way. Very few jewelers created their own new cut. Bulgari used colorful cabochons with great success and Harry Winston popularized the “Winston cluster”. Beyond that she stood out in bringing a new cut into the jewelry world at this time.

This iconic choker by was made by Maria B herself.  It comes with her original drawing of the piece and a certificate from the company, Marina B, certifying that it is a creation by the Founder herself.

The choker is a curved form with an open back to allow for comfort and several ways of wearing. It features 27 triangular settings each set with a Chestnut Cut bright diamond of approximately 0.75 carats each bordered by 27 smaller round cut diamonds. This pattern is repeated with similar triangular motifs perfectly nestled together. Every other motif is positioned so that the chestnut is pointed up and the next, down. The repetition of this design using only VS diamonds and gold is incredibly striking. 

This very same piece appears in the book, “Marina B, The Art of Jewelry Design” by Viviane Jutheau de Witt, on page 186.

• The choker is 0.62 inches wide and approximately 13 inches long (it is flexible and has an open back)
• Approximately 27 carats of VS diamonds
• Signed Marina B
• Numbered CIII/I
• Marked “OR 750” for 18k gold
• Dated 1982 (engraved on the piece)
• Comes in a beautiful leather box and leather carrying pouch