Rene Boivin Sapphire and Diamond “Passementerie” Ear Clips Circa 1965

Among Rene Boivin’s postwar creations were the passementerie jewels designed by Juliette Moutard, whose work for the Maison spanned nearly four decades. Inspired by Jeanne Boivin’s fascination with supple cords, knots and tassels of traditional furnishing trimmings, Moutard translated the vocabulary of textiles into gems and precious metals. Gold and diamonds were articulated, looped, and gathered so that the metal assumed the fluidity and movement of a silk cord—a characteristically Boivin transformation of an unexpected decorative source into bold, highly sophisticated jewelry. The theme was explored in a number of forms, including brooches and ear clips, examples of which are illustrated in Francoise Caille’s definitive monograph, Rene Boivin Joaillier.

Created circa 1965, these exceptional passementerie ear clips represent one of the most sumptuous interpretations of the motif. Cascades of articulated yellow-gold and diamond-set tassels are suspended from diamond-set surmounts and terminate in a pair of substantial blue sapphire cabochon drops. The sapphires, approximately 22 carats total, provide a richly colored counterpoint to the brilliance and movement of approximately 12 carats of diamonds. Both sculptural and remarkably fluid, the earrings exemplify Boivin’s singular ability to make precious metals appear tactile and almost textile-like, while their scale, articulation and important sapphire drops give the pair an especially dramatic presence.

• 2 inches long
• 1 inch wide at widest point
• Weight is 42.3 grams
• Approximately 22 carats total weight blue sapphire
• Approximately 12 carats of VS diamonds
• Signed Rene Boivin